Eyeliner has never been part of my daily makeup routine. I have always been a low-key, no-fuss 'no-makeup makeup' kind of person. Plus, because my eyes are naturally big and round, I've always been concerned that eyeliner just makes them look too panda-eyed and overly done.
Having said that, I've worked behind the scenes on beauty shoots for years, and I've seen how transformative eyeliner can be. The right placement of a winged liner can lift even the droopiest eyes and adding a pop of kohl to the waterline can help tired eyes pop and appear more awake.
So, at almost 50, an age when your facial features need a little extra definition, I'm reevaluating my approach to eyeliner and I've been experimenting with different shades and techniques to help brighten and lift my eyes.
"Mature eyes can sometimes look heavy, which has the very unflattering name of 'hooded eyes',” my friend and celebrity makeup artist, Donna May remarked, after I was complaining about mine. "But there's no reason to skip eyeliner altogether. You just need to look at how you're applying it."
How to wear eyeliner in midlife
1. Tightlining
Donna's go-to trick is 'tightlining,' which involves applying a soft pencil to the upper waterline. This is the inner rim of your eyelid, the area between your eyelashes and the eyeball, and then filling in the gaps between your eyelashes. "It gives a subtle definition and creates the appearance of fuller, longer eyelashes," she explained.
I think that's where I've been going wrong - I always assume that wearing eyeliner has to be something noticeable, that it's about having the appearance of a heavy line sitting on top of the eyelid. But no - it's often about using it to create an illusion of more defined eyes and fuller eyelashes.
2. Change the colour
The switch that has been a real game-changer for me is ditching traditional black and lining with a different colour. "Black eyeliner can be harsh as we age, so swapping it for something softer such as navy, brown or even dark plum (which is great on blue eyes) is always a good idea, especially if you're over 40. These shades define your eyes without overwhelming them," Donna adds.
I have been using Victoria Beckham Satin Kajal Liner in Navy Noir, which is a chic but still subtle upgrade from black. It makes my eyes look so much softer and fresher. Plus I was surprised at how much brighter and more open they were without a thick visible black line. It's the first time in years that I felt liner has done me a favour.
3. Alter your wings
But what if you still love winged liner? "That’'s fine!" Donna said, "But stop the line before the outer corner of your eye.
Take the flick upwards, towards the end of your brow. A lot of women keep drawing along the lash line right to the end, but that line starts to turn downwards as we get older – and that's what makes the eye look sad."