As the world’s top fashion houses unveiled their autumn/winter 2025 couture collections in Paris, the city also played host to the latest high jewellery presentations. Behind closed doors in salons, hotels and rooftop suites, brands revealed their latest creations.
This season, nature emerged as a recurring muse, with flora, fauna and celestial motifs reimagined in new ways. Archival references were brought into the present, while sculptural forms and a sense of movement lent drama and dimension. From storied maisons to rising stars, these were the high jewellery collections that dazzled Paris.
To mark its 20th anniversary, Parisian jeweller Messika has taken a new direction with Terres d’Instinct, a high jewellery collection inspired by the landscapes of Namibia. From the shifting sands of the Namib Desert to the silhouettes of lions and cheetahs, the designs are bold and graphic, with twinkling diamonds sometimes matched with coloured gemstones.
At its Paris flagship, Gucci revealed new additions toLabirinti Gucci, continuing its Italian garden in bloom. A necklace set with rubellite tourmalines and tsavorites echoes trellis patterns, while the Marina Chain appears in a parure featuring rubies, sapphires and tsavorites in a soft gradient.
Japanese jeweller Tasaki took an elegant, pared-back approach with its latest haute joaillerie collection shaped around five gemstones. Emeralds, rubies, sapphires, pearls and white diamonds each anchor a themed set - from the clean lines of Rouge Sublime to the soft contrast of pearls and yellow diamonds in Grâce Éternelle.
Pomellato’s Collezione 1967 revisits three decades of design with sculptural chains, rich colour and unmistakable Milanese flair. A highlight is the Cascade necklace, with twin diamond-set chains flowing around a Ceylon sapphire like a frozen waterfall. Elsewhere, a supple tanzanite necklace, set with a 55.96ct stone, wraps elegantly around the neck, blurring the line between metal and fabric.
Dior's Diorexquis, created by French designer Victoire de Castellane, unfolds across three seasonal chapters - from winter’s opulence to spring florals and sunlit summer tones. Opals, onyx and diamonds are layered into rich compositions, with standouts including floral earrings, a golden-hour necklace and stained-glass effects created through colour, light and lacquer.
Graff marked its founding decade with 1963, a graphic, diamond-led suite channeling the spirit of the Swinging Sixties. More than 129 carats of oval, baguette and round diamonds form hypnotic, concentric ovals across a necklace, bracelet and earrings, finished with a subtle flash of emerald pavé - a nod to the house’s signature green.
Chanel reimagined its house founder’s most iconic motifs with Reach for the Stars, a high jewellery collection built around comets, lions and, for the first time, wings. The Wings of Chanel necklace unfurls diamond wings around the neck, centred on a Padparadscha sapphire, while Dreams Come True pairs a 6.06 ct diamond with black-coated-gold chains and a cascade of diamonds. Detachable pendants, lion-head motifs and pear-shaped diamonds, meanwhile, bring red carpet drama to the collection.
While many maisons chose Paris, Louis Vuitton brought high jewellery spectacle to Mallorca with the unveiling of Virtuosity at the 14th-century Castell de Bellver. As the sun set over the candlelit courtyard, models in custom Nicolas Ghesquière gowns showcased 110 one-of-a-kind creations. Split into twelve themes, the collection charted a journey of creativity culminating in the Eternal Sun necklace, set with 27 perfectly matched yellow diamonds and a 14ct centre stone, crowned by an LV Monogram Star-cut diamond.
Inspired by founder Mario Buccellati’s early fabric designs, Italian jeweller Buccellati debuted a trio of one-of-a-kind clutch bags that fuse high jewellery with heritage. The capsule includes a green velvet clutch with a rubellite clasp, a diamond-trimmed black velvet version with an Opera pendant and a spherical bag set with diamond garlands and a gold handle.
Belgian designer and high jewellery newcomer Dries Criel’s latest pieces draw on natural form and texture, with hand-carved jade, yellow diamonds and chrome tourmalines chosen for their unique colour. Highlights include the Double Lotus bracelet with a yellow diamond and snow-set emeralds, a matching ring centred on a Muzo emerald, and a sculptural jade cuff carved to echo the flow of water.
Tiffany & Co.’s Blue Book 2025: Sea of Wonder brings the magic of the ocean to life in a dazzling high jewellery collection designed by Nathalie Verdeille. Inspired by Jean Schlumberger’s legendary underwater motifs, the pieces reimagine sea creatures and coral gardens in a series of vivid, sculptural designs. From moonstone-studded seahorses to starfish set with rubies and rose-cut diamonds, each chapter explores a different marine world.
Unveiled during a dazzling cocktail party at Paris’ Théâtre de Verdure at the Musée du Quai Branly, Repossi’s Blast collection reimagines the house’s signature golden thread motif with sculptural flair. Inspired by primitive art, modern sculpture and 1980s archives, the pieces play with spiralling volumes and graphic curves. Highlights include the sweeping plastron necklace and Spirale hoop earrings, which wrap elegantly around the body in polished gold.
Shown in Paris following its debut at the 78th Cannes Film Festival, Chopard’s Red Carpet collection showcases 78 high jewellery creations inspired by Artistic Director Caroline Scheufele’s personal universe. Animals, flowers, couture, gems, the cosmos and the heart are reimagined in intricate forms. Crafted in the house’s Geneva ateliers, the collection reflects Chopard’s creativity and enduring role as the red carpet jeweller.
Titled Rare Perfection, David Morris’s latest collection takes inspiration from the grandeur of natural gemstones and the drama of London’s Bond Street ateliers. It’s a celebration of colour, movement and light, with vivid rubies, spinels and yellow diamonds set in pieces designed to dazzle. A key piece is the Pirouette necklace, where Mozambican rubies graduate in intensity towards the centre, while the Atlantis cuff is crafted with a hidden mechanism that flexes with the wrist.
Chaumet looked to the natural world for Jewels by Nature, a collection inspired by the beauty of flora and fauna. From wild roses and clover to dragonflies and bees, the designs take a poetic, almost botanical approach. Split into three chapters - Everlasting, Ephemeral and Reviving - the pieces explore themes of growth, change and renewal. Among the standouts: a sweeping carnation necklace in shades of blue, centred on a 36.44ct Ceylon sapphire.
Unveiled at an exclusive exhibition at Sotheby’s Paris, Greek designer Nikos Koulis introduced a 30-piece high jewellery series showcasing his signature graphic silhouettes in one-of-a-kind creations, including a white gold and matte-black aluminium cuff bracelet, and a sculptural brooch set with a 9.08-carat fancy brownish yellow oval-cut diamond.
Brazilian-born designer Fernando Jorge explored the clean geometry of the baguette-cut diamond with Vertex, a 16-piece high jewellery collection. Inspired by the energy of New York, the pieces blend Art Deco codes with fluid curves in white and yellow gold on cascading earrings, oversized rings and bold, centrepiece necklaces.
Unveiled at the Ritz Paris, London jeweller Jessica McCormack’s Tempest collection brings a sun-soaked twist to her signature Georgian-cut silhouettes, with vibrant rubies, sapphires and emeralds in playful summer hues. Highlights include Tempest diamond and sapphire earrings, and a sweeping diamond collier finished with a juicy emerald pendant.
At an intimate presentation, Anna Hurevealed 21 one-of-a-kind high jewellery pieces inspired by nature and Chinese culture - two themes central to her design philosophy. The Orchid Minuet suite paid tribute to legendary Peking Opera heroine Mu Guiying with vibrant, featherlight blooms, while La Rose Gracieuse - a brooch set with a 1.18-carat fancy vivid yellow diamond - honoured the legacy of Princess Grace of Monaco.
With Essence of Nature: Chapter 2, De Beers looked to the trees of its diamond-producing countries. Textured gold and rough diamonds evoke Namibia’s camelthorn; carved jet channels the baobab of Botswana. In softer contrast, South Africa’s jacaranda inspired articulated blooms with violet enamel, while Canada’s maple leaf appeared in crisp gold silhouettes set with orange diamonds.
